If you're going, to San Francisco


I have a final interview in San Fran on Monday and I figured, why not make it a weekend since they're flying me out there? So I'll be spending the weekend in San Francisco, a city I've never been to before and where I'm about 80% likely to live as of midsummer. A few questions for the community:

-What should I make a point of seeing this weekend?

-What neighborhoods should I look at, if anyone has any suggestions? I'm thinking Berkeley or West Oakland now for reasonable rent with BART access.

-Does anyone have Luis Alegria's contact information? Would be good to see if I couldn't run into him for a beer while there -- also, any other forvmites living in SF at the moment? I'll probably be doing the solo sightseeing thing all weekend so it would be nice to meet up with someone for a drink, perhaps get some advice on the city

This concludes your shameless plea for companionship/advice from Dionysus. The job's really neat, somehow I'm looking good for a job at the exact limit of my tech abilities, distributed computing over terabytes of data, which is really exciting and challenging, hopefully the hours won't be too bad.
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Thanks Mac (#93265)
by dionysus

Dunno what I was thinking. The first time I saw a 1bdrm for over 2,000 bucks gave me sticker shock, I guess, but browsing craigslist seems like there's a good # of people looking for roomies for at a more reasonable rent price. Yeah I guess I'll check out mission district based on reviews below, anyplace in the process of gentrifying is prob where I'll fit in best.

Just do me a favor dionysus (#93338)
by Macallan

Heed my advice on taking a bit of time before you pick your neighborhood. Even a couple of blocks can be transformative. Almost anyone can find a true home in San Francisco, but one man's bliss can be another's hell. So take your time getting a feel for what suits you, and this might sound odd, but also what suits the types you might seek to date. Though the city is a great place to be a single, there is a sort of provincialism of where people identify themselves.

I don't mean snobbery as much as I do clannishness, because it has little to do with traditional lines of snobbery. You'll find it in the Castro just as much as Pacific Heights. Easy enough to overcome if you got skills, but you're going to be working harder than maybe you need to (of course things may have changed since the Stone Age, but I doubt it).

--

“I serve as a blank screen on which people of vastly different political stripes project their own views.”

Nah, that makes sense, (#93391)
by dionysus

No quicker way to mortally offend the hip than to question their judgment about what's hippest.

I'm prob gonna do a hotel room for the first month while taking my time on really picking a neighborhood and roomies -- it's worth a couple hundred extra for that first month to wind up with roommates who are fun. I'll be working so many hours that first month that it won't really matter where I live anyways.

Stop the crazy talk! (#93205)
by Macallan

If you are young and single…

…you ARE going to live in the city. No further discussion.

Forget about rent costs, we're talking about a life experience that you'll never be able to repeat "when you can afford it."

When you're married and have kids, that's the time to think about the 'burbs.

Additionally, if you can swing it, don't pick a neighborhood sight unseen. Take a little time before you settle on one. It is a very diverse city, and anyone can find a niche that fits, but take some time to search out the right little corner for you.

--

“I serve as a blank screen on which people of vastly different political stripes project their own views.”

You missed me by 2 months (#93158)
by catchy

You could've counted on a grad student having some free time for a drink.

Honestly if you're woprking in the city I'd say get a place in the city. The rents aren't that different from Oakland. If you're set on the East Bay, I'd say Oakland's Temescal is a nice + reasonably priced neighborhood just off the MacArthur BART.

Unfortunately many of the nicer neighborhoods in oakland are farther away from the subway.

In the city, you could check out the parts of the mission that have been gentrified. Between 17th-21st from Valencia to Church is a fun place to be w. good restaurants close by. E.g. on 22nd + Valencia is my favorite Indian restaurant, Rasoi.

North Beach is alright though a little touristy, full of strip clubs, and mediocre Italian restaurants. Still worth checking out on a visit. Streetlights bookstore is a good stop. Maybe grab a drink at the Prague Cafe nearby in the afternoon. After a Czech beer, Enrico's is just up the hill and has a nice atmosphere + jazz piano if you like that sort of thing.

The Exploratory is really nice as Jordan mentioned. I don't think Fisherman's wharf has much to recommend it other than sourdough bread and a lot of tourists. Skip.

Going across the Golden Gate is pretty mandatory and just north is a great view of the city. The Japanese garden in golden gate park would be a nice stop-off on your way if you've got wheels.

If it's a nice day and you haven't got transport take a bus to the Haight and wander around for a bit and then access Golden Gate Park that way (Haight dead-ends at the park close to the shops and bars.)

I'd also recommend picking up a Guardian or SF weekly and seeing if there are any shows to your liking over the weekend. Whatever you like SF's got it and I think the people are super-friendly. Even in the richer joints you can easily strike up a convo and I wouldn't worry about going out alone.

hmmm... I don't like Karoake generally but the Mint has some really funny acts as does the Stud's Trannyshack shows on Sundays. Good fun, but not everyone has my tastes. (In general I was trying to keep it classy!)

p.s. I'll send you Luis Alegria's email address. He once told me he didn't drink and hasn't been ehre in awhile, so I wouldn't expect much.

IIRC, Mac + aireachail both live in the Bay Area tho not SF proper. Keep checking back for suggestions, and best wishes on your move! SF is still my favorite US city!! You're gonna love it!!

I think you mean City Lights Bookstore (#93196)
by BlaiseP

On Columbus at Broadway.

When I was there, banners were hung out, decrying some injustice or other. One thing about San Francisco, you'll know you're in Lefty Land immediately. Everyone seems to be in competition for the Leftier than Thou prize.

Cosign almost everything you said (#93185)
by Vuelta

Also used to be a grad student living in SF.

I used to live in the Mission - 22nd and Capp. Lot's of great restaurants in the area - best Mexican in the city, German food (Walzwerk), new American (Luna Park), tapas (Las Ramblas, Cha, Cha, Chas, some others i forget the name of), Ethiopian, etc, etc. There's tons of great dive bars on by 16th and Guerrero (Kilowatt, Dalva, 500 Club to name a few).

If you like sushi, i would recommend going to Ebisu (just south of the Golden Gate Park). For breakfast, i would recommend checking out Dottie's True Blue Cafe in the Tenderloin. It's an hour wait, but totally worth it. Get a coffee from someplace nearby for the wait in line.

I strongly cosign walking across the golden gate and then hiking up the little hill (called Vista Point) for a great view of the city. Sausalito is a quaint little town as well - you can also go kayaking around there. The Presidio and Marina are probably worth checking out if you have time.

There's so much great stuff to do in SF, there's not much way to go wrong.

22nd and Capp (#93297)
by catchy

That's pretty near hooker territory. 20th & Capp got a lot of traffic.

I know, I lived on 24th and Shotwell for several yrs.

Dalva is fun. There's a tiny back room that's nice for a few friends + wild times.

Luna Park is wonderful (#93187)
by BlaiseP

Anything they do with meat is marvelous.

I really like their goat cheese fondue as well. (#93192)
by Vuelta

Though i'm a sucker for most every kind of fondue.

Hey, thanks a ton for the feedback (#93184)
by dionysus

That's 2 for 2 so far saying just live in SF, I'll def check out the mission district. How's Richmond? Would be nice to find someplace with parking and I could take the Geary St line straight downtown to a block from the office, might be kind of a boring neighborhood from the look of it though, mission district would def be closer to everything.

I'd say nah to the Richmond (#93298)
by catchy

definitely nothing going on in the outer and not much going on in the inner. The Geary line takes forever anyways.

The Mission is a magic carpet ride. Check it out.

Seconded (#93315)
by Elagabalus

I don't think you could get by without a car in Richmond. However, Bezerkeley is doable "sans auto" ( I know, Mac, I know ...but he may not be as conservative as you are, so he might like it). A buddy of mine used to have a nice 50's style studio appt. right on the boundary line between Berkeley and Oakland. Technically it was Oakland but it still had that Berkeley vibe and the rent was slightly cheaper because of the zip code.

--

I had discovered a great secret. That everyone loves themselves more than they love anybody else. And if I wanted them to love me, I better be like THEM!... Ken Nordine

Palace of Fine Arts, I sez, not the Exploratorium. (#93180)
by Jordan

I've never been inside, not much into gee-whiz museums, though I hear it's pretty cool nonetheless. But the Palace grounds itself is something to see, a giant-scale Turner painting on SF Bay.

--

Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you're a mile away and you have their shoes. -JH

Favorite SF restaurants: (#93060)
by tomsyl

My fave is Rose Pistola's in North Beach. A Reed Haeron place with food like people ate in SF a hundred years ago. Jazz trio on weekends. Try the Terrorized Steak if you're a meat eater.

Also, Greek Isles food at Kokkari on Jackson near the Pyramid. A unique deep-fried smelt appetizer ("Marithes Tiganites") and wonderful fish. Coffee sucks, though.

Also, classic SoMo Mediterranean at Lulu (Mussels cooked on a bed of salt).

Of the big names, Boulevard was great last I ate there, though pricey, of course.

IMO there's nothing really very good in the Fisherman's Wharf/Cannery area, and the big-name North Beach places like North Beach Restaurant and Wash. Square B&G are overrated.

--

Even a dead midget is far from light. - Confucius

mmm. pork chops (#93125)
by callmeishmael

off the beaten path:
- Nopa on Divisidero
- Pauline's Pizza (great thin crust pizza's with fresh ingredients -- so fresh they are almost cheeky)

and of course you can't beat the Rubicon a perennial fav

Well, definitely don't drive if you go to Rubicon (#93127)
by tomsyl

While the food's great, it's all about wine. Great wine. Lots of great wine. I'd pick some wine and let the wine person tell you what food to have with it - it's that kind of place.

I thought John's Grill was the original pork chops n' apple sauce restaurant, but haven't eaten there in probably twenty years.

Good call on Nopa, and reasonable prices, too, if I'm thinking of the same place.

--

Even a dead midget is far from light. - Confucius

Thanks Tomsyl (#93091)
by dionysus

Big fan of Jazz and steaks so I'll def check out Rose Pistola's, Jordan spoke highly of North Beach too so I guess that's my saturday night depending on what the friends of friends I'm crashing with are doing.

Vesuvio in North Beach is good (#93118)
by BlaiseP

I had a good time, and the atmosphere was great.

SF tour (#93024)
by callmeishmael

Our family lives in the east bay of San Francisco-but our favorite tour for first time visitors, I think, captures the incredible diversity (in all senses) and beauty of the area:
- drive out to Muir Woods and take in the beauty of the giant coastal redwoods in a beautiful park only 30 minutes from SF
- on the way back, go to the top of Golden Gate Park (fog should be off the coast by then) and take in the specatular vista of the bridge, the city, and the surrounding Bay area
- then go to China town, park, wander and wonder
- or, drop into Sausalito, take the ferry back to SF and have dinner at the Slanted Door there in the ferry building.
- or, drive down the Embarcadero and grab a pint or two at the Gordon Biersch
- go to the Giants game. They may suck but the view from the park out over the Bay is a beautiful back drop for a night baseball game.

Enjoy. Dress warmly though! May is chilly with the damp fog and cold air coming off the Pacific

OK ... (#93018)
by Elagabalus

rule # 1, Don't call it "San Fran" or "Frisco" it's "the city" and don't you forget it. Bay-area residents are very sensitive, owing to the fact that they live in the perpetual shadow of Los Angeles (Doooh! You love it)!

--

I had discovered a great secret. That everyone loves themselves more than they love anybody else. And if I wanted them to love me, I better be like THEM!... Ken Nordine

Is it OK to call it "Bagdad on the Bay"? (#93061)
by tomsyl

or did that go out of style for some reason after Herb Caen died?

--

Even a dead midget is far from light. - Confucius

The rule, as I learned it, said "Frisco" was bad. (#93036)
by BlaiseP

"San Fran" was okay.

As for living in the shadow of Los Angeles, that's a stretch. Northern California isn't even on the same planet.

There's a phrase in Japanese, ukiyo-e, ukiyo = floating world. e = art. That's San Francisco in a nutshell for me. The floating world, a place of haunting and impermanent beauty. Its greatest treasures are its people, the greatest exponents of idiosyncrasy and moneyed weirdness in the nation. Expensive, difficult and as irritatingly awkward as it is, "The City" is everything Los Angeles is not.

Ok, first of all bring a coat. (#93004)
by Jordan

In early May *will* be freezing your tuckus off come sundown, if not sooner, and it's a bad, insidious kind of cold. If you're driving, understand that the street plan was devised by a psychotic 12-year-old version of Ivan Pavlov -- one-way no exit streets can go on for dozens of blocks, through-streets dead end in hillsides for no good reason, roadsigns are placed mostly to add to the hilarity, and I say this as a veteran of Manhattan & Houston (and Italian) driving.

Touristy stuff worth seeing: Golden Gate Bridge, Golden Gate Park (or head down to Ocean Beach if it looks warm enough, won't be swimming weather yet though unless you have a wetsuit). Haight-Ashbury. The Palace of Fine Arts. Chinatown. I'd put Fisherman's Wharf about last. Berkeley if you're heading across the bay.

Good eats/Nightlife: unfortunately past few times I've been I just followed the crowd to the booze and food. I'd get a zagat's or something. Cool bars in the North Beach area as I recall.

Dangerous: the Tenderloin & parts of Mission districts can be damn sketchy, reminds me of East New York in my part of the world.

--

Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you're a mile away and you have their shoes. -JH

Dude, I'm from Boston (#93013)
by dionysus

Cold weather? One way streets? Right, San Fran, I'm worried. I'll take the advice about packing a coat though and won't have a car this weekend although I will if I move out there for sure.

Thanks for the advice, I'll check out most of those things for sure, how's the transit? Are the muni lines fast? BART seems very fast and the office is right off the Montgomery stop, so I have the gamut of potential housing available to me.

Well San Fran, even in the summer, (#93028)
by Jordan

can be bright shorts-and-flip-flops hot during the day, then catch your Birkenstocked butt by surprise with a 20-degree drop the moment the sun lights out towards Okinawa. Catch me shelling out $45 for a Rice-a-Roni sweatshirt once, shame on the climate....

Anyhow I haven't been in Boston enough to know if it's that crazy, but I always figured it was the Pacific, cold as a glass of icewater at that latitude.

BART is very good -- I spent some time living in the city and commuting down to Santa Clara and trains/bus/trolleys will get you pretty much anywhere it sounds like you want to go for the weekend. Long term you still want a car to get out of the area, though commuting to work would be better by bike or bus.

--

Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you're a mile away and you have their shoes. -JH

Heh. Boston is a good preparation for San Fran. (#93015)
by BlaiseP

Keeping a car is hell in San Fran: expect to pay more for any place with parking. Gas is expensive as hell. Traffic is hellish. You'll want a mountain bike and a good lock. Grocery delivery is worth the extra money, that was my biggest hassle.

The Mission District isn't as bad as it once was: it's going through a gentrification phase. Lots of great restaurants in the Mission now: I was out there last year.

Hard to say what you'll find enjoyable (#93001)
by BlaiseP

But I found this fire engine tour a hell of a lot of fun. Crossing the Golden Gate bridge in an open top vehicle is about as much fun as you can have with your pants on, and the run to Sausalito is much good.

The nice thing about doing the tourist bus thing, first, is you'll get an idea of the general layout. I've done this with almost every city I've been to, and it's paid off handsomely. Nothing wrong with being a tourist for a few hours. Get the best maps of the place you can find. Bring a map on the tour, start circling places you find interesting.

Nothing is less wanted than unwanted advice, but since you've asked for some: getting a good place in the Bay Area is as much about knowing someone as anything else. I was there for about six months in the late 90s, sublet an apartment in Millbrae.

That's a pretty solid idea actually (#93014)
by dionysus

Good method for getting the layout of the city, I might have to check out that firetruck ride even though I'll be a shameless tourist for doing so. What was your impression of Berkeley and West Oakland? Rents are about a grand cheaper there than downtown and the BART seems plenty fast

Oakland and the East Bay are not nearly as nice (#93016)
by BlaiseP

and yet they're still overpriced. BART is good, but it's crowded as hell in rush hour. Mass transit isn't as good, and Oakland has its own dynamic. You may like it, for all I know.

If you have already signed on with this company, send out the word through your network of associates, ask them to keep a weather eye out for apartments or condos coming open. The Bay Area has very few lifetime residents: people come and go. In this, it's rather like NYC.

Another good idea, if you have the time and inclination, is to get a BART Blue ticket (all BART fares are mileage-based) and poke your head out at the various stops.

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