¡Oaxaca, Si!


Some pictures from Oaxaca. All taken within the past few days.

Go here for eight more.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/28582775@N05/

Never did this Flikr thing before. Hope it works.

Edit: Thanks Traveller! So much easier than the code I was trying. Hopefully I can remember this.

Camera: Canon Eos Rebel. Two models down. Lens: stock piece of crap. I couldn't borrow the "L" series lens, and close inspection of the photos shows that the stock lens just sucks. It's soft and low contrast compared to a "real" lens, but the fringing was minimal, and it made for some nice snapshots. Only one new battery was needed, as I never used a flash, (broken), and I never filled my 2 gig memory card. Unfortunately most of my prep time was spent in the emergency ward, (long story, but I'm fine), so I only had time to grab a body, lens, battery, memory, get in the cab, go to the airport, and off.

**************

Oaxaca

What a place. Southern Mexico, down by where it gets skinny, a couple of hours south of Mexico City. Oaxaca is part of a vast Police State. There were political disturbances down there a couple of years ago, and according to locals over 20 were killed. Issues related to their very unfair educational system. It seems that the Mexican ruling class simply does not want the little people educated properly. The final results were mixed, with the teachers and their supporters essentially caving in. Too bad, but the sentiments are still alive. You will encounter somewhere between 5 and 8 various police entities during your stay. But since you are a tourist, and bring money, you will find yourself in an extremely safe environment.

Grafitti is everywhere. Kids think nothing of tagging walls that are thousands of years old. Music is everywhere. A quartet of excellent musicians serenaded us with Central American/South American flute/guitar/drum music that sounded like it came off a CD. A jazz trio was knocking out Bird, Dizzy and Cannonball Adderley tunes one night in a small bar/café that remlnded me of a North Beach coffee shop circa 1964- 67. Their musicianship was stunning. Perfect time. Perfect tone. Another night the stage was commanded by a 24 yr. old folk singer who was equally talented.

Drink the Mescal. There are many types, and Mescal was invented here thousands of years ago. I had somewhere around 10 kinds, getting me pretty drunk on three occasions. My favorite, and I highly recommend it, is Mezcal Tobala. Although perfectly clear and without the worm, this stuff is the smoothest. We visited agave farms and fields, and two manufacturing facilities, one large although not mechanized, and another put up by a farmer on the side of a hill. Mescal is the drink of the gods.

Hotel rooms are pretty cheap, if you hunt around. I wanted to save money so I rented some $20 and some $45 dollar rooms, with shared bath and with private bath. So, I'm calculating, if I could simply rent out my joint next summer, I could go down, stay in modest rooms and eat at modest restaraunts, and actually come out ahead or break even on the deal.

No visit is complete unless you eat bugs. In the mercados you will find various spicy grasshoppers. I stayed away from the big ones, but the most popular are the small grasshoppers, cooked up and spiced up in different ways.I had a dish that was a fine, soft white cheese covered with tiny black bugs. Quite rich and tasty. And the Mescal worm, the one that lives in the Agave boll when growing, and gets put in many of their bottles of Mescal, not only tastes good, but supposedly has anti-depressive qualities. Nice balance for a very serious alcoholic drink.

Anybody considering going there? I've got tips. Nine days. Airfare from Los Angeles - $900. Everything else - $600. I must go back. Bone up on your Spanish. Most of the folks down there are bilingual, but English ain't on the agenda down there, as their second language is usually some indigenous dialog spoken by hundreds or thousands of people.

Most of the tourists I encountered were Mexican, although I ran into numerous Germans, English and Dutch. Americans are not an overwhelming influence down there.

My target date for another Oaxacan adventure is in two years. That's when the new highway to the southern Pacific coast will be done.

Cheers!

--

Me: We! -- Ali

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Monte Alban Made You Feel Humble? (Pic) (#103166)
by Traveller

...and the image is yours, of course....lol

Was it the passage of the centuries upon centuries on those old stones? What was humbling?

(Actually, I'd like to hear the Emergency Room Story...and the fact that you just kept going...that I like or would like to be able to emulate).

Best Wishes, Traveller (PS I think all the pics are great...thanks)

The people who built Monte Alban... (#103173)
by Zelig

...didn't even have the wheel, or beasts of burden of any kind. The labor came from the surrounding villages, as each young man had to put in his time, like with the draft. Work was seasonal, to match farmers' downtime. Work on Monte Alban, which started with the flattening of a mountain top, was very precise, with a N-S alignment of all the buildings and little holes in the structures like in the picture that aligned perfectly with the sun, moon and stars.

They were human blood worshipers, although details are scarce as to the specifics, and opinions vary wildly as to actual torture practices and methods. Flaying was common, as was self-torture. Although they wrote stuff down in exotic pictograms, little has been deciphered, for technical reasons, but computer-aided breakthroughs in the near future are possible.

These were hearty little people with legs like fire hydrants who could walk all day up and down mountains while carrying 50 lbs. of food, who built a huge, largely unknown civilization that got conquered, and re-conquered, and then just disappeared. Except you can see the ancestors in the people you encounter on the streets, especially when you get away from the central city. These people know how to walk, and know how to work.

*******

As to my hospital visit, well, it was brief. I was out getting some exercise in 100* heat with high humidity, and almost collapsed. Well, I did collapse, but remained standing. Couldn't breathe. This was a result of one of my medications not working properly, probably my fault, and my lungs filling up with fluid and then partially shutting down.

I learned a thing or two about how to properly manage my little health problems, that's for sure. You just got to power thru this stuff when you get old. George Burns is my hero, though I'm still pissed he didn't perform in Las Vegas on his 100th birthday, as he was contracted to do. Assh*le.

I walked up and down all those pyramids at Monte Alban. Yea, I got winded, but so did a bunch of folks. My Norwegian nephew, with long legs of steel, literally sprinted up those pyramids though. But then he'll get old too someday.

--

Me: We! -- Ali

That last pic is amazing. n/t (#103678)
by mmghosh

And just imagine; (#103235)
by aireachail

they didn't play one last exhibition game and then demolish those complexes after 86 years.

Uncivilized lot, weren't they?

--

Excess on occasion is exhilarating. It prevents moderation from acquiring the deadening effect of a habit. - W. Somerset Maugham

Thanks (#103142)
by Pranky

My wife and I are heading to Mérida in September to visit some friends. Looks like we'll take a ride to the coast and stay a couple nights in Celestun. I'll put together a diary about it when I get back.

One of these years I hope to get to Oaxaca.

Great diary Zelig. (#103134)
by trouscaillon

Grafitti is everywhere. Kids think nothing of tagging walls that are thousands of years old.

Portugal was like this when I was there as well, and I found it pretty infuriating. I imagine that their history and cultural accumulation, much like our industry and constant development, can be a burden in some ways, but to come from the midwest where nothing is more than seventy or eighty years old and see ancient, fantastically beautiful buildings defaced with childish graffiti was something of a shock.

Actually, much of the grafitti... (#103147)
by Zelig

...is political in nature, although you will also find useless scribbles everywhere. Oaxaca has a large-highly educated class of very modern and very political people. Not unlike San Francisco in the mid-sixties. I found the university district, about 12-15 blocks square, extremely intoxicating. I could spend weeks in this one district of downtown Oaxaca.

Images of political heroes abound. You can't miss the faces of Zapata, Guevara and former President and revolutionary leader Benito Juárez, who was a full-blooded Zapotec and learned Spanish as a second language in school. As an old leftie, I felt really at home. All warm and fuzzy.

Perfect climate also. Bring a long sleeve shirt, maybe, but perhaps you'll do as I did and just carry it around for a night. Never too hot. Never too cold. Utilities are only necessary for light and for charging and running your electronics. Never drink the water though, and be careful when taking a shower. Always brush teeth with bottled water.

--

Me: We! -- Ali

"...political heroes..." (#103299)
by vinteuil

"...Guevara..."

*Shudder*

Imagine what it would be like to be a lefty in a world where it was perfectly socially acceptable to admit to feeling "all warm and fuzzy" in the presence of images of "political heroes" like, say, Adolf Eichmann...

--

God help the while, a bad world I say.

Reagan's plenty horrifying, thanks. -nt- (#103302)
by Punditus Maximus

.

--

It's impossible to debate if people simply hold beliefs that have no grounding in reality.

Thanks for reminding me, PM... (#103312)
by vinteuil

...you'd also have to imagine a world in which seemingly intelligent & well educated conservatives routinely equated moderately liberal politicians like, say, Joe Lieberman, with blood-lusting sociopaths.

--

God help the while, a bad world I say.

Oh, Reagan wasn't a blood-lusting sociopath. (#103326)
by Punditus Maximus

He just ran guns to them.

--

It's impossible to debate if people simply hold beliefs that have no grounding in reality.

You make my point for me. (#103346)
by vinteuil

n/t

--

God help the while, a bad world I say.

What's the difference? (#103154)
by Bernard Guerrero

much of the grafitti is political in nature, although you will also find useless scribbles everywhere :^)

--

The ultimate result of shielding man from the effects of folly is to people the world with fools. -Herbert Spencer

Some of us can discern... (#103175)
by Zelig

...the different types of graffiti. I've been doing this for years. Right now I'm working with about 4 or 5 categories. I'm a big fan of well-executed street art of all kinds. Some, (way less than half) of the street art that I like is political in nature.

--

Me: We! -- Ali

I'm pretty liberal on law and order stuff... (#103413)
by nyoos junkey

but my "solutions" for graffiti always seem to come back to some sort of sniper rifle. Clean enough of it up and it starts seeming like the path of least net suffering.

Hey BG (#103164)
by hobbesist

your tags are open.

--

Brevis esse laboro, obscurus fio.

I was there in 1997 (#103132)
by Sulla

found Mescal to be eminently more drinkable than tequila (got sick off too many free tequila shots in Tijuana I guess). The ruins were the highlight, the climate is perfect, the local artisans were very skilled, the food was excellent (did not try the bugs), and like nearly every other impoverished place I've been to the locals love to party.

--

"That Sam-I-am! That Sam-I-am! I do not like that Sam-I-am!"- Dr. Seuss

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